Italians throughout the centuries have retreated inland, building villages and towns on the higher hills to protect themselves from barbarian invasions from the sea. As a result, Italians developed a beef, vegetable, and dairy diet in their homes, relying heavily on farm products the land provided. This fact of life also affected the seashore populace who, perhaps because of an abundance of fish, considered it to be less nutritious than beef. This erroneous perception has changed in recent times, and today the Italian diet relies heavily on the richness of the Mediterranean sea, which surrounds the entire peninsula.

The origin of Italian cooking at seashores, however, was well established a long time ago. The Romans themselves started the first breeding of moray and gilthead bream for the table of the rich. From ancient times, the most prized Mediterranean fish have been caught and generally roasted or grilled. The seashore's inhabitants developed a fish cookery tradition which found its expressions in the rich array of the fish stews (zuppe di pesce), the cooking of various types of fish with a few vegetables and one common condiment: olive oil. It is curious to observe that the recipe books from the 15th to 18th century totally ignore fish cookery. It is only in the writing of Vincenzo Agnoletti in 1814 that we find the first hint of "fish broths to pour over slices of bread".

Zuppe di pesce, the name of which changes according to regions, such as caciucco ciuppin etc., does not have basic rules of preparation, but it is born by the obvious necessity of working with the least priced fish aboard fishing boats, or from customers who, at the last minute, bought whatever was left over from the daily catch. The consumption of fish has also increased considerably thanks to an extraordinary and perfect distribution network that allows for the merchandise to arrive at markets while still very fresh. The fish market in Milan, for example is the most important in Italy and one of the most important in Europe; therefore, it's relatively easy to find in Milan, Bergamo and other locations far away from the sea, restaurants that are well known for their fish cookery.

The fish in this chapter are the most common variety, and the recipes the most popular. Caciucco brodetti and zuppe are all much the same although the names vary from one village to the other, each claiming its recipe to be the original. From the immediate consumption of the small fish along the shore to commercially organized fisheries in larger markets of Milan and Rome, today fish is one of the most important nutrients in the Italian diet. The quality of fish is primarily determined by its environment: the cleaner and richer in nutritive elements the water is, the better the fish will taste. All fish, shellfish included, must be eaten fresh or perfectly preserved by freezing, smoking, or salting.

How to Recognize Fresh Fish
Fresh fish have virtually no smell, or, if marine in origin, smell only of seaweed and seawater. The body of a fresh fish is rigid, the flesh firm. The skin should not be dry. The scales (if present) are shiny, tightly connected to each other and to the body. The eyes should be clear, shiny and not sunken. The gills should be red and wet. The stomach should be firm, neither swollen nor lacerated. The tail should be rigid, and the anal orifice completely closed. If you buy fish in fillets or steaks, check that the flesh is white or rosy, with iridescent reflections, and adheres firmly to the bone.

How to Clean Fish
Fish must always be thoroughly cleaned, regardless of how they are to be cooked. If the fish has scales, they must be removed: place the fish on a large sheet of paper, and, holding it by the tail (if it is slippery, hold the tail with a towel), lightly scrape the fish with the back of a knife or one with a dull blade, held at an angle, scraping from the tail to the head, until all scales are removed. The fins may also be removed. Gut the fish by making a small opening in the stomach to remove the intestines and black membrane (if present) which lines the stomach cavity. To improve the aesthetic appearance of the fish, remove the guts by inserting your fingers through the gills and pulling them out through this opening. Wash the fish well and let drain, head down. This procedure is appropriate for most kinds of fish. With spiny fish it is a good idea to remove the fins first, because they are equipped with sharp points.

How to Fillet a Fish
Clean the fish and place it on its side on the cutting board. With a sharp knife cut the fish by following the line of the spine. Cut deeply into the flesh, releasing the fish from the backbone. Make a diagonal cut behind the head and gills and remove the fillet. Repeat on the other side.

How to Fillet a Sole
Slip the point of a knife under the skin near the tail and cut towards the tail to release the skin. Grab the skin in one hand, hold the tail down with the other and pull the skin toward the head, peeling it away from the flesh. Repeat the operation on the other side. Then, with a flat, flexible knife, cut the flesh down the center on either side of the backbone. Going from the center, work toward the edge (along the bones). Remove the fillet with a knife. Repeat on the other side. A big sole will yield four fillets.

Poaching liquids for fish
2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 sprig parsley, chopped, 1 celery stalk, 2 Tbs. butter, 2 Tbs. oil, 1 qt. white wine, 2 qts. water, 2 bay leaves oz. salt, 8 peppercorns
Saute the vegetables with butter and oil until they begin to get tender. Add dry white wine, water, bay leaf and salt. Cover and let cook over medium heat for about 45 minutes. Ten minutes before the end of the cooking time, add peppercorns. When the liquid is ready, let cool, filter, and place the broth in a poacher. Add the selected fish, bring slowly to a boil, lower the heat and cook, uncovered until fish is cooked through.

Poaching Liquid with Vinegar
Use same procedure and ingredients as in the preceding preparation, except that 2 cups of vinegar is substituted for the wine. The vinegar is boiled and reduced by half before being added to the water. Cooked in this way, the flesh of the fish keeps its pinkish color. One half cup of lemon juice may be substituted for vinegar.

Poaching Liquid with Milk
Use only water and milk (1 qt. milk to 1 qt. water) 2 bay leaves, 6 white peppercorns, 2 lemon (thinly sliced), 1 small onion and a sprig of thyme. Add salt to taste. If the poaching liquid is to be used for salt cod, no further salt need be added. Simply bring to a boil and remove from heat. The poaching liquid is now ready. Bring the poaching liquids back to a simmer before adding the fish.

Poaching Liquid with Water
Mix only water and coarse salt together (2 OZ. for every qt. of water), so that the very delicate flavor of the fish is not altered. In coastal areas the fish may be cooked in sea water.